Luxor — ancient Thebes
Luxor, 700 km south of Cairo, is ancient Thebes — the capital of pharaonic Egypt for over a thousand years (2100–1069 BCE). The city is split across two banks: the East Bank (the city of the living with Karnak and Luxor temples) and the West Bank (the city of the dead with the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut's Temple). Population 500 000, but you feel like you're inside an open-air museum spanning three thousand years of Egyptian history.
The Valley of the Kings
The Valley of the Kings, behind the mountains on the West Bank, contains 63 royal tombs, 62 of them from the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties. The most famous: Tutankhamun's tomb (KV62, the only one discovered unlooted in 1922), Ramses VI's tomb (large and colourful), Seti I's tomb (the largest, 100 metres deep). A general ticket of 750 EGP covers 3 tombs. Tutankhamun's tomb requires an extra 900 EGP ticket. Seti's tomb 1 500 EGP extra.
Karnak Temple — the largest ancient religious complex
Karnak Temple on the East Bank is the largest religious complex ever built: 200 hectares, built over 2 000 years by 30 pharaohs. The Great Hypostyle Hall contains 134 columns, some 21 metres tall. The sacred ram path connects it to Luxor Temple 3 km to the south. Open 6:00–17:30, ticket 450 EGP. Evening sound-and-light show 750 EGP.
Luxor Temple
Luxor Temple is smaller than Karnak but more elegant — built by Pharaoh Amenhotep III in the 14th century BCE. The standing obelisk (25 m) is one of a pair; the other has stood in Place de la Concorde in Paris since 1836. The temple is especially beautiful at dusk with its lighting. Ticket 400 EGP.
Hatshepsut Temple (Deir el-Bahri)
Queen Hatshepsut's temple (1479–1458 BCE, the first great female pharaoh) at Deir el-Bahri is carved into a mountain. Three tiered terraces with columns — a pioneering work of ancient architecture. Ticket 400 EGP. Right next to it are the smaller Ramesseum and Medinet Habu.
Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan
The classic way to explore Upper Egypt: a 3–4-night Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan (or the reverse), stopping at the temples of Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo. Ships such as Mövenpick or Oberoi cost 1 500–3 000 USD per person. Cheaper alternatives are dahabiyas (traditional sailing boats) at 800–1 500 USD.
Getting there and hotels
Luxor Airport has daily flights from Cairo (1 hour, 100 USD), and direct European charters. Train from Cairo takes 10 hours (sleeper class 90 USD). Hotels: Hilton Luxor (luxury next to Karnak), Al Gezirah (central, budget), Maritim Jolie Ville (Nile cruises).