Fifty streets of Islamic history
Old Cairo contains the largest concentration of medieval mosques outside the Arabian Peninsula — more than 600 mosques and madrasas from the period between 641 and 1800 CE. From the first mosque built by Amr ibn al-As in 641 (the founding mosque) to the Rifai style of the 19th century. A tour on foot or by local taxi (50 EGP per stop).
The Citadel and Muhammad Ali Mosque
The Citadel (built by Saladin in 1176) on the Muqattam hill holds the Muhammad Ali Mosque (1848), Cairo's most famous mosque. Ottoman style (modelled on Hagia Sophia in Istanbul), white marble, central dome 52 metres. Non-Muslims may enter (shoulders and knees covered, shoes off). The Citadel also contains the Al-Nasir Muhammad Mosque (original Mamluk), a royal carriage museum, a police museum. Citadel ticket 300 EGP.
Ibn Tulun Mosque — the oldest in Egypt
The Ibn Tulun Mosque (879 CE) in the Sayeda Zeinab district is the oldest mosque in Egypt still in its original form. Abbasid style (modelled on the Samarra mosque in Iraq), courtyard 92×92 metres, unique spiral minaret you can climb. Free and uncrowded — among the calmest places in Cairo.
Sultan Hassan Mosque and Madrasa
Sultan Hassan Mosque (1361) beside the Citadel is the greatest Mamluk building in the world. 8 000 square metres, 68 metres tall, a madrasa for jurisprudence in all four schools. A vast central courtyard with 4 iwans. Ticket 300 EGP, combined with the Al-Rifai Mosque opposite.
Al-Rifai Mosque (the modern model)
Al-Rifai Mosque (1912) opposite Sultan Hassan — built in the old Mamluk style but in the 20th century. It houses the tombs of the Egyptian royal family, including Shah Reza Pahlavi the Last (Shah of Iran, died in Cairo in 1980).
Atmosphere and timing
Best to visit Islamic Cairo in the evening (after 4 pm) — the sun less harsh, lights beautiful, the muezzins calling. Friday is crowded (day of prayer). Wear modest clothing (long sleeves and trouser legs), women should carry a headscarf. Women may enter all the mosques mentioned.